FIELD JOURNALDecember 2025

The Long Way North

Four stops up the spine of Patagonia — from the wind off the Strait of Magellan to the granite of Fitz Roy.

Punta ArenasPuerto NatalesTorres del PaineEl Chaltén
ROUTE · 01

Mile zero — Punta Arenas

The trip starts at the end of the continent, on the Strait of Magellan. Painted tin houses, a wind that never sits still, and the cold grey water that once carried every ship between two oceans. From here, everything is north.

Punta Arenas · 53.2°S 70.9°W
Punta Arenas — 01
Punta Arenas — 02
Punta Arenas — 03
ROUTE · 02

The sound — Puerto Natales

Three hours up the road, the land folds into fjords. Puerto Natales is a fishing town turned trekker's gateway — boats on the Última Esperanza sound, the first glimpse of ice on the horizon, and the smell of the sea getting colder.

Puerto Natales · 51.7°S 72.5°W
Puerto Natales — 01
Puerto Natales — 02
Puerto Natales — 03
ROUTE · 03

Under the towers — Torres del Paine

Then the towers. Three granite spires that catch fire at dawn over a turquoise lake. Three days walking under guanacos and a wind strong enough to lean on — the reason the whole route exists.

Torres del Paine · 51.0°S 73.4°W
Torres del Paine — 01
Torres del Paine — 02
Torres del Paine — 03
Torres del Paine — 04
ROUTE · 04

Journey's end — El Chaltén

Across the Argentine border, the road runs out at El Chaltén, beneath Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre. The trekking capital, last on the line — where the needles glow red at first light and the long way north finally stops.

El Chaltén · 49.3°S 72.9°W
El Chaltén — 01
El Chaltén — 02
El Chaltén — 03